Les Dessous de la Robe

French bistronomy finds a spirited, modern expression in this intimate enclave, where traditional techniques are applied to a rotating canvas of seasonal market finds. The menu functions as a thesis on flavor concentration, exemplified by an onion tarte tatin that balances the deep, umami-rich sweetness of caramelized Alliums with a buttery, laminated pastry base. A scent of sea salt and citrus precedes the arrival of seared octopus, which is charred over high heat to achieve a resilient exterior while maintaining a tender, succulent core. Technical rigor extends to the beef cheek, braised in red wine until the collagen transforms into a luxurious, coating sauce that clings to glazed parsnips. Whether presenting a refined croque jeune homme or scallops gratinées resting on a bed of crispy leeks, the kitchen maintains a focus on textural contrast and aromatic depth, ensuring each small plate contributes to a cohesive narrative.