librairie racines

A tasting journey through Simone Tondo’s Racines begins in the historic Passage des Panoramas, where the menu bridges the chef’s Sardinian roots with the rusticity of a Parisian bistro-à-vins. The progression often starts with a vitello tonnato of exceptional delicacy, where thinly sliced veal is paired with a tuna-caper emulsion that achieves a suave, velvet consistency. Handmade pasta remains the kitchen’s technical centerpiece; the tagliatelle with manzo and mushrooms is tossed in a rich, umami-laden sauce that clings to each al dente strand. A distinct aroma of roasted meat and wild herbs drifts from the open kitchen, where the technique of slow-braising transforms tough cuts into tender masterpieces. The polpette, seasoned with traditional spices, offer a satisfyingly dense yet moist texture, reflecting a commitment to honest, soulful cooking. Each plate is a celebration of seasonal produce and natural wines, resulting in a dining experience that is both intellectually grounded and deeply comforting.