Roberto Ruiz’s Can Chan Chán represents a sophisticated 'Mad-Mex' synthesis in Madrid, where the soul of Mexico City meets the market bounty of Spain. This is non-traditional Mexican cuisine defined by a daring cross-pollination of techniques. The experience centers on the nixtamalized corn tortilla, yet the fillings defy convention. A standout is the taco de chopitos, where crispy baby squid are elevated by a dark, umami-rich pico de gallo negro and the smoky heat of salsa macha. The kitchen’s technical prowess shines in the pargo adobado al pastor, a red snapper treated with traditional meat marinades and charred over open flames to achieve a delicate, lacquered crust. Texture is paramount, exemplified by the guacamole served with brittle, golden tortillitas de camarones. Aromas of toasted agave and fermented chiles drift from the bar, while the huitlacoche and cuttlefish empanada offer a silken, earthy depth.