Undurraga: Heritage Is the Least Interesting Thing About It
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Undurraga: Heritage Is the Least Interesting Thing About It

Femente Editorial25 June 20263 min read

How an 1885 estate stays modern by hunting Chile's forgotten plots

Undurraga sells itself on heritage, and nearly tells the story backward. Francisco Undurraga founded the estate on the outskirts of Santiago in 1885, and the first thing he did with it was look abroad.

He had European vines carried across the Atlantic sealed in lead capsules, a trick to keep them alive through the heat of the tropics, and planted French Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir beside German Riesling and Gewurztraminer. Then he sold the finished wine back toward Europe, making his estate one of the first in Chile to export on its own terms rather than imitate from a distance. The place was a laboratory before it was a label.

That impulse is the real inheritance. The house's Terroir Hunter range, marked T.H. on the bottle, turns the founder's outward gaze inward, sending the winemaking team to small, overlooked sites from the cool coast to the old-vine south. Head winemaker Rafael Urrejola calls it fidelity rather than reinvention: the same search Francisco began, now aimed at Chile's own ground.

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Undurraga

Undurraga

The catalogue shows a house that kept moving. Cabernet Sauvignon threads through more of its wines than any other grape, roughly 68 of them, with Carmenere close behind in 33, the variety Chile salvaged from the phylloxera losses that wiped it out in Bordeaux. The newer vintages reward the attention: the 2021s sit at the top of the Undurraga wines critics have scored, a cool year that flattered the leaner, plot-specific style the house now chases.

Most old wineries sell the past as a guarantee. Undurraga's past is the opposite of one, a record of a man who would not stand still, and the most faithful thing his successors do is refuse to stand still either. The 1885 on the label is the least Undurraga thing about the wine in the bottle.

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