Here's the lede: The Aubance gorge splits its loyalties three ways—Chenin Blanc wines that turn mineral and honeyed with age, rosés of unexpected structure, reds built on Cabernet Franc that drink lean and peppery.
Here's the lede: The Aubance gorge splits its loyalties three ways—Chenin Blanc wines that turn mineral and honeyed with age, rosés of unexpected structure, reds built on Cabernet Franc that drink lean and peppery. Here, producers refuse to choose a single identity.
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