Penfolds Made Grange by Blending Away Terroir
WINERY

Penfolds Made Grange by Blending Away Terroir

Femente Editorial20 July 20263 min read

Max Schubert's multi-region Shiraz and its warehouse Bin numbers rewrote Australian wine

Most of the world's great reds are arguments for a single place, one hillside whose wine could come from nowhere else. Penfolds built Australia's most famous wine by arguing the opposite. Grange is blended from Shiraz grown across whole regions of South Australia, each parcel chosen for what it adds rather than where it sits, and that idea became the benchmark for Australian wine.

EXPLORE REGION
South Australia

South Australia

The wine came from one stubborn winemaker. Max Schubert returned from Bordeaux in 1950 wanting a red that could age for decades, and the next year he made the first experimental Grange. He fermented it dry, blended across districts, and matured it in new American oak, which gave the wine its sweet, resinous signature. Penfolds management disliked the early results enough to order him to stop. Schubert kept making it quietly until the bottles aged into something the same executives could no longer argue with.

The naming tells you how the house thinks. Penfolds numbers its wines after the cellar bins they were once stored in, so the labels read like warehouse stock rather than vineyards. Grange settled on Bin 95, and the bottlings around it made the case that a number and a recipe, repeated and refined each year, could carry as much meaning as a place name. The catalogue now runs past a hundred different reds.

That approach makes Penfolds unusually easy to learn. Because each Bin is meant to taste recognisable from one year to the next, you can work your way up the range and know what changes as you climb, from the everyday reds to St. Henri, the top Shiraz that sees no new oak at all. Grange is the trophy, but the real lesson sits lower down the range. In the right hands, a steady recipe can teach you as much as a famous vineyard.

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WINERY FOCUS

How Penfolds Bet the House on Blending

While Bordeaux talked terroir, Max Schubert built an Australian icon out of multi-region cuvées

REGION FOCUS

South Australia: The Old Vines Phylloxera Never Reached

Why Barossa Shiraz and Grenache trade on unbroken age

DID YOU KNOW

Why 'Old Vine' on a Label Usually Means Nothing

Two regions regulate the term. Everywhere else, the vines could be twelve years old.

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